- Nagendra Sharma
Come August, and in the shadowy gloom of the monastic sanctuary of Rudra Varna Mahaavihara in Patan, we may see a row of female forms lying prostrate day in and day out, for a full month. Probably looking more dead than alive, they are some country wenches going through a month-long fasting, the Goonlaa. Seven handfuls of consecrated water given by the Buddhist priest every day is said to be their only ration. Should you visit the place on subsequent occasions, add those in the know, the increasingly emaciated and pitiable sight these devotees present is bound to prick your conscience and arouse in you a feeling of sympathy and reverence for them. Towards the end of the holy month they can hardly move and their voice could be sunk into a feeble whisper at best. They are, expectedly, mere bundles of bones and skin - a ghost of their previous selves.
But why are they subjecting themselves to such a horrible penance with so single-minded and exemplary devotion ? Their objective is simply to win back the lost love of their errant husbands who have either deserted them or may possibly be running after other women.
But do the wayward hubbies oblige them ? Yes, if they are sensible enough. For one thing, the fear of scandal among relatives and neighbours who invariably visit the Vihaara, is believed to act as a very potent goading factor. For another, he will face extreme social censure and may even be legally charged for murder, should his wife die in the process of such a harsh fasting.
Customarily, it is expected of the 'penitent' husband to come along with a local musical band, a palanquin, a set of new clothes and food delicacies in order to take his wife back home to a rousing reception. The husband's attitudinal volte-face, from one of cold negligence and apathy to a feeling of 'warm' affection has another edge to it ; it is believed that their wives' penances will bring Lord Buddha's blessings and a lucky turn of the tide in the shape of a son or a good fortune for the couple. Should, however, a hubby prove himself so much of a wretch as not to turn up either during or after the penance, it is said to mean an instant divorce and the wife is then free to seek other life-mates.
The fourteenth day in the month of Bhaadra (August-September) is the most important day in the month-long affair of the Goonlaa. It is said to be known as Panchadaan - the day of alms-giving. On this day, Dipaankara Buddha is said to have accepted alms from the hands of a lowly blacksmith in preference to that of a king. And, when asked, the savant is said to have replied that the foodstuff offered by the artisan was earned by the sweat of his brow, whereas the king's was not ! As such, on this day, the Buddhist priests are expected to go seeking alms, either with ceremonial robes or without, while housewives vie against each other to offer them the best alms possible, for, it is said, you never know when Dipaankara Buddha himself would himself come to their doors in the garb of a monk ! Charity and benevolence, therefore, is the order of the day.
The Goonlaa month concludes with the first day of the dark fortnight in Bhaadra and calls for a family picnic (Paato) in and around the Swayambhu hillock . The surrounding greenery of this holy site is often covered with colourful groups enoying open-air feasts and a hearty drink.
This holy month of fast, penance and prayers is to the Nepalese Buddhists what Ramaadaan is to the Muslims, it is averred. In
Worshipping a new Buddha image each day is another Goonlaa feature; most houses preserve moulds that come in handy on this occasion in casting impromptu clay figurines of the Lord, "brought to life" by thrusting a grain of unpolished rice into each. The clay images that grow into a sizeable heap by the month-end are then taken in a ritual procession to the river for immersion.
[ Courtesy: "This Is Nepal", published by Sajha Prakashan,